Weather Frontal Systems Air masses are almost always on the move. The heat generated by our Sun reaches us in pulses which are not always equal and this powerful energy has tremendous influence on our either. The boundary between two air masses is termed a weather front. There are two kinds. A cooler or cold air mass will usually replace a warmer one, as the warmer mass is always pulled upward. This action creates what is called a cold front.

On the other hand, if the reverse happens and a mass of warmer air rides in. it will ride up and over the cold air mass - cool and clouds will be formed. In the beginning, they’ll be high cirrus clouds, but will grow in weight and become midlevel clouds. Eventually they become thick Stratus clouds that produce wind and precipitation.

Cold fronts produce a more volatile type of weather than does a warmer atmosphere. A cold front meeting warmer air, forces the air upward at a sharp angle and this swift upward thrust causes instability in both air masses. Huge cumulus clouds are created as they puff out tons of water vapor that triggers a line of storms all the way along the boundary of the air mass. The fast rising air forces in an area of low pressure behind it causing very strong winds as the system quickly fills the void. Sometimes a cold front overtakes a slower moving warm front. When that happens, the warm air finds itself attached to the other, and the two fronts continue moving in tandem. The boundary line between them is called an occluded front.

Stratus clouds and light rain or snow usually accompanies occluded fronts. As two air masses meet, sometimes neither has the strength to replace the other and becomes a stationary front. During this time clouds and lengthy periods of precipitation occur. These fronts slowly diminish over a few days. Occasionally the stationary front can be disturbed by a spinning warm or cold air mass. Stationary weather fronts are likely to occur in summertime.

In our world, nothing stores heat more effectively than sea water. Seawater heats up or cools down more slowly than the land surrounding it. With the oceans occupying more than seventy percent of the planet’s surface, this property found within seawater means that the ocean currents will carry warmer water to many different parts of the planet. These warmer ocean currents will affect the surface temperatures of the surrounding landmasses. The Gulf Stream historically moderates climate in Great Britain. This Island nation is amazingly warmer than most other countries found at the same latitude. On the other hand, the coastal regions of California are cooled by the action of what is called the Californian Current.

Cold meeting over warm seas build frontal weather systems. Winter storms in the eastern U S are created when the polar air stream encounters the warmer air found above the warmer current. When chilly polar air mingles with the warm air above warmer sea surfaces, frontal weather systems are created. Since water heats and cools more slowly, minimum and maximum sea temperatures usually pause behind the winter and summer solstices by a few weeks. This pause intensifies the variance between land and sea temperatures.

Anyone writing a press release knows just how important that it delivers the impact needed from the targeted market. Press Releases are intended to make people be aware of the existence of a business, its products and service. A Press Release is therefore an effective vehicle in bringing traffic to one’s company. You can measure the success of a press release by the volume of sales and business, it brings in.

So how do you actually make a release that will function as it was intended? What are some good rules of thumb in writing a press release that works?

Here are Ten Handy Techniques: A Press Release That Works

1.) Know the required format for submission. With this, you know what the needed data will be in your release. Different online press distribution service providers will vary slightly on the lay-out of the release format”the substance though will usually be the same.

2.) Brainstorm with your colleagues on what information you will want to include in the release. A team approach will be excellent in deciding which will be most important and critical for the business to include as information in the release. This way, every angle can be considered”and everybody gets a say on what will matter for the business.

3) Do not try to squeeze in all details in your press release to the point that you will lose the attention of your readers. Choose carefully the highlights of your company and include only those that will attract and convince your readers to deal with your company. In an effective press release, sometimes less information is stronger than more. Too much can distract your targeted audience and they might lose interest in reading the rest of it.

4) Truth comes out sooner or later! So when you write a press release, all the things in there must be satisfactorily met. It is never good practice to send out press releases that carry promises that cannot be fulfilled. Maybe you get some customers initially but once words spread that you did not deliver, then you just wasted your efforts. You just made yourself some negative advertisement.

5) Stress out the extraordinary features of your products or services. Be precise in your wordings so as to get the attention and interest of your targeted readers.

6) Brush up on your writing skills. Edit your press release. Mistakes in grammar and poor English kill an otherwise good press release.

7.) Get a second opinion about your draft release as a whole. Have someone check this for clarity and succinctness. If necessary, do some revisions. All writings undergo revisions until a final and polished written material is achieved”writing a press release is no different.
When you are done, select a press distribution service provider online that can deliver and successfully drive traffic to your business. Be careful in your selection, do extensive investigation as to the reliability and level of service of these online providers. You need a provider that you can trust in what they claim they can do. Go on forums, learn more about their historical performance. Ask around for referrals.

9) Choose five sites that impress you most. This way you can study each site better helping you to make the right choice.

10.) Contact each of these 5 sites, and do some inquiries. By mere correspondence with them, you will get a feel on their responsiveness and how they might be conducting their businesses. If you cant get a decent response now, what can you expect from them if you get their services and have some concerns along the way?

With these 10 effective guidelines, you could be assured of a winning press release. A Press release, not written properly can turn into a losing investment. However, when you follow these guidelines,your business will grow and be a winner.

The leaves of sympodial orchids are produced from the pseudobulb. There may be one or several. In cymbidiums, a number of long, narrow leaves come from the basal sheaths that cover the pseudobulb, and fall from the plant at a separation line that prevents any damage when the leaf is shed.

Cattleyas produce just one or two broad, semi-rigid leaves from the apex of the pseudobulbs. Leaves vary considerably in colour from a light mid-green to dark grey-green. Some paphiopedilums and phalaenopsis are mottled with light and dark green shades. Not all sympodial orchids produce pseudobulbs. The paphiopedilums and phragmipediums, for example, form fans of leaves from a basal rhizome. Monopodial orchids have a single vertical rhizome from which pairs of leaves grow at right angles. Vandas and phalaenopsis are the best examples of monopodial orchids in cultivation.

The tips of orchid roots are extremely vulnerable to damage and can be easily broken when they are outside the pot.

Pseudobulbs are the longest-living part of the plant and will exist in a dormant state long after the leaves have been shed. Leafless pseudobulbs are known as back bulbs. In evergreen types, such as cymbidiums, a healthy plant consists of more pseudobulbs in leaf than out of leaf. With the deciduous types, such as lycastes, a cluster of leafless pseudobulbs with only the leading one in leaf is normal.

Pseudobulbs have evolved into an unlimited range of shapes and sizes, from long, thin, pencil shapes to rounded or even flattened structures. They may be no larger than a pea, round and shiny, and delicious to look at when newly formed, as in the smaller coelogynes and bulbophyllums. By contrast, they may be the size of a tennis ball, as in the case of some cymbidiums. In cattleyas and allied genera, they become tall and clubshaped, swelling out from a narrow base adjoining the stout rhizome, while the one or two leaves are formed at the top.

Aim lac rhizome and seldom have nett law underground. Many orchids :Ticaosynthesize through the roots, n Mme examples there are a tii small epiphytic species that wine :become totally leafless, relying apon a bundle of thick roots to eritibe necessary chlorophyll. The soots of some orchids are also ammarb.ranractive; in phalaenopsis they ameniram white when outside the pot.

The purpose of this is not fully understood, but it may be that they are a protection from insects or a means of preventing water lying on the foliage, which could be detrimental on cold nights. Other monopodials, including vandas, have leaf tips that are serrated; these enable the plant to dispose of any excess moisture taken up through the roots.

The glow of light at the end of this hollow pseudobulb indicates the small hole at the bottom of the structure. In the wild, these orchids are infested with huge colonies of ants which live inside the hollow pseudobulb. The ant has a comfortable home, and the plant remains untroubled by parasites.

Watering is the greatest cause of uncertainty among orchid growers, and whether a plant is ready for water or not is always under debate. This is a problem for experienced growers as well as beginners. While they are growing, orchids need to be kept evenly moist, avoiding the two extremes of becoming sodden at the roots or bone dry.

When you apply water, give enough to flood the surface, allowing the water to run through, then repeat the process. This will ensure a good soaking. Because of the nature of orchid compost (growing medium), the water will quickly disappear, so you need to use much more than is actually retained.

Dry compost will vary in colour, or you may notice other subtle differences that will only come with experience. If you are still not sure, slip a plant out of its pot, without breaking up the compost ball, and take a quick look underneath to see how wet it is. Take a look also at the plant itself. This will tell you what has been happening over the past weeks.

If the pseudobulbs are plump, all is well. Shrivelled pseudobulbs, or limp foliage, may indicate underwatering or even overwatering. Further study of the roots will ascertain which is the cause, and the problem can be remedied. Generally, you may expect to water a typical orchid once or twice in any week during the growing season. Water once every two or three weeks while the orchid is resting.

The complex hybrids in this genus often conform to a nine-month cycle, so that new growth is often started at a different time of the year. This can result in plants growing during the winter and resting and flowering during the summer. Stanhopeas often prefer to grow during the winter, flowering in midsummer while at rest. The paphiopedilums and phalaenopsis do not grow and flower at the same time.

A large, root-bound plant its a small pot will need far more water to ensure that some of it at least gets iris the pot and penetrates to the roots.

Always try to water the orchids at time when the temperature is rising. This means watering early in the dae and is more important in winter sin when all surplus moisture will hat time to dry by nightfall. This avoids the combination of wet and cold that orchids detest.

This system is less necessary with indoor growing, and where just a few plants are grown they can be moved individually to the kitchen foe watering and allowed to drain before being returned to their growing area. so surplus water is not a problem.

In the kitchen, a wide windowsill will accommodate several orchids, but make sure that they will not be exposed to too much hot steam from the washing-up bowl or, worse, a steaming kettle. There may be more than one suitable aspect in the living or dining room, provided these are kept at a comfortable temperature.

Bedrooms, which are often colder at night, will be suitable for the cooler growing orchids, which need a nighttime drop in order to grow and flower well. Spare bedrooms are perhaps less suitable because such rooms are often left unheated and unvisited on a regular basis, and plants remaining here may be forgotten for days, and, with little rise in the daytime temperature, can become very cold indeed.

These sterile rooms will not provide the stimulating conditions in which orchids grow. The bathroom is often considered an ideal place because of the steam created when the bath or shower is running. However, this creates rapid changes in temperature and humidity, which plants can find hard to tolerate.

In addition, the bathroom is most often the worst-lit room in the house. Usually any light comes from a small, frosted window, which is insufficient for most orchids.

Bathroom-grown orchids are often distinguishable by the light coating of talcum powder covering their leaves. This, in itself, is dangerous to orchids, clogging up the leaf pores and preventing them from ventilating in the normal way. In a house, an ideal position can often be found in a window halfway up the stairwell.

Wherever there is sufficient light and warmth, orchids will grow, provided a suitable growing area is set aside for them. Cellar culture is practised in countries such as Canada, where excessively cold winters prevent the use of greenhouses.

The cellar, which is usually heated, is adapted to grow orchids by the installation of electric lighting and benching with humidity trays, and a system of catching the surplus water to be recycled or drained away.

Conservatories that are shaded by large trees nearby are the most suitable, and the danger of overheating in summer is greatly lessened.

The vast majority of tropical orchids were brought into cultivation during the 19th century. For over 50 years, regular consignments containing tens of thousands of new species were shipped to Britain, leaving whole areas of rainforest stripped of their treasures. By the time they arrived in England, there were many losses. Orchids rotted in the holds of the ships or were eaten by the rats and cockroaches that infested the ships, until only a very few survived. Shipwrecks, not unusual occurrences in those days, also accounted for total losses of whole consignments.

The finest varieties of those plants that remained were sold at auction at hugely inflated prices, where competition among the wealthy collectors was fierce. In this way, the first of the prodigious collections of orchids were created; their equal has never been seen since. The lust for tropical orchids spread beyond Europe to the East Coast of the United States, and by the turn of the 20th century orchids were being grown on both sides of the Atlantic.

In London, the Royal Horticultural Society appointed an Orchid Committee to set the standards for judging and awarding the best clones, and Britain maintained its lead in the introduction of new species. Early Orchid Nurseries The earliest nursery to specialize in tropical epiphytes and other exotic plants was that of Conrad Loddiges. He set up his nursery in the Hackney district of London. By 1812, he had established the largest collection of tropical plants known at that time. He published a journal, The Cabinet, in which he described many of the new plants. Other nurserymen followed, and the firm of B. S. Williams and Sons in Upper Norwood, London, and William Bull in the King’s Road, Chelsea, London, were at the forefront of supplying orchids to owners of large estates.

By the 19th century, the Exeter nursery of James Veitch and Sons in Devon employed the greatest number of collectors to search for new trees, shrubs and other garden plants, as well as orchids. The firm of Sander’s and Sons from St Albans came later, but rose to rival the most influential commercial establishments.

The plants eventually arrived in England and were named Phalaenopsis sanderiana. The flowers, however, were never red, but a pale rosy-pink. Another of Sander’s collectors was making further discoveries in New Guinea. He encountered a village where the tribesmen laid the bones of their dead in graveyards and then decorated them with the finest orchids they could find.

The Aztecs grew this vine-like orchid, which they called Tlilxochitl, for the seed capsules, which were ground and mixed with the brown seeds of the cacao plant to produce a bitter drink that is the basis of the chocolate we have today.

This was a condition insisted upon by the natives, who were persuaded to relinquish parts of their valued ancestors only after mirrors, beads and a roll of brass wire had been exchanged. The plants, still attached to the skulls, and the idols were sold as one lot and purchased by the Hon. Walter Rothschild, in whose collection they remained for many years. D. schroderianum was named after Baron Schroeder, who was a patron of Frederick Sander.

Phalaenopsis are strikingly beautiful, and have been popular among orchid collectors since the golden era of orchid hunting. This orchid is Phalaenopsis Flare Spots.

Synonym are Cichorium endivia var. crispa L., Cichorium endivia L.

Common names are Lettuce (Eng.); Laitue (Fr.); Lechuga (Sp.); Salat (Ger.); Sia (Neth.); Letsugas (Philip.).

Botanical varieties are var. asparagina Bailey, syn. L. angustana Vilm., L. sativa L. var. angustana Irish ex Bremer (Asparagus or Stem Lettuce, Celtuce) Mature leaves coarse and inedible; basal leaves narrow, lanceolate, alternate, sometimes with pointed apex, non-heading; young, thickened stems up to 1 m and young leaves used as a cooked vegetable; mainly grown in China, from where it originated. var. capitata L. ( Cabbage, Butterhead or Head Lettuce ) Compact rosettes of leaves forming a solid head; leaves broad, almost orbicular, midrib branching into small veins. var. crispa L. (Leaf Lettuce, Curled Lettuce) - Leaves in loose rosettes, similar to cabbage lettuce but non-heading; some cultivars with curled or crinkled leaves. var. longifolia Lam., syn. L. romana Gars. (Cos or Romaine Lettuce) Rosettes of leaves cylindrical, upright leaves obovate to oblong, coarse in texture; midrib prominent, terminating near rounded leaf apex; leaves mainly self-folding, forming loose heads.

The Middle East, later spreading to Egypt by 4500 BC, Greece and many parts of the Mediterranean before being introduced to China by the seventh century AD. A recent introduction to the tropics. Possibly derived from L. serriola L. which is indigenous to western Asia.

Cultivated to a limited extent in the Caribbean, Malaysia, East and West Africa, mainly at high altitudes.

An annual glabrous herb. Roots: main taproot, with fibrous lateral branches. Stems: cylindrical, containing latex vessels, up to 10 cm in most cultivars but extended to 1 m in L. sativa var. asparagina. Leaves: almost sessile, arranged spirally in rosettes, variable in size and form, 10-25 cm in length. Flowers: pentamerous, yellow, in dense clusters, ligulate and hermaphrodite. anthers connate; stigma bifid. Seeds: achenes, oval, 34 mm in length, ribbed, hairy at one end, white, yellow, grey or brown, pappus of silky hairs; approximately 100 seeds/g.

The crop is tolerant of a wide range of soil conditions but well drained soils with a satisfactory organic content and adequate mineral reserves are most suitable. Reduced yields are obtained from crops grown on heavy clay soils. High temperatures, above 27C, are likely to induce low yields. The water requirements of the crop are not high, but rainfall levels of more than 1500 mm per year are likely to reduce growth and possibly cause rotting of the tubers. Tuber yield is reduced when crops are grown at low elevations and altitudes of more than 500 m are generally required for the production of satisfactory yields. Crops are grown in India at elevations up to 3600 m. Short days appear to promote tuber initiation and development; some forms may show tuber dormancy for periods of up to 150 days.

Seeds are sown in seed beds or containers and transplanted when 5-7 cm in height to rows 30-36 cm apart, 20-25 cm between plants, depending on the vigor of the cultivar. Approximately 0.5 kg of seed is required to plant one hectare. Blanching, which reduces the bitter flavor of the leaves, is induced by tying the leaves together when the plants are approaching maturity, for a period of 1044 days. During wet weather, the internal leaves are liable to rot and decay and this practice is only feasible during relatively dry periods. Irrigation: The requirement for water is moderately high, plants grown during the dry season will require supplementary irrigation. Nutrient requirements: Plants respond well to high levels of organic material in the soil but additional nitrogenous dressings are generally beneficial during the early period of growth.

Plants normally mature within 70-85 days from transplanting, depending on factors such as soil fertility and irrigation efficiency. Yield: Yields in the region of 6-12 t/ha may be obtained. Seed production: Seed is rarely formed in the tropics, except at elevations above 1500 m. Most cultivars are almost completely self-pollinated. A 600 m isolation distance is sufficient unless hybrid seed is being produced, when 1000 m is more appropriate. The average seed yield is 200 kg/ha.

Once they have been harvested, the tubers rapidly shrink and deteriorate if kept at ambient temperatures, but if they are sound and disease-free, they may be successfully stored for periods from 90 to 150 days at 0C in a relative humidity of 90-95% although a significant loss, due to decay and shriveling of tubers, may occur.

he young leaves, preferably blanched, are eaten in salads. The mature green leaves are sometimes used as a cooked vegetable.

In addition to having plants in pots, growing orchids under glass enables you to grow them mounted on bark or attached to tree branches. The latter can make attractive and unusual additions in the greenhouse, and can be set up at one end to create a pleasing, eye-catching and permanent display. Some orchids can be grown in open slatted baskets, and by using these different methods every available space can be utilized. It is surprising how many orchids you can fit comfortably into a small greenhouse. However, if you are considering purchasing a new greenhouse for your orchids, it is always best to obtain one that is larger than you think you will need.

Phalaenopsis, which in the Northern Hemisphere are grown in outdoors every year, can Ao extremely well outdoors in tropical areas. The plants should always be established so that their fleshy leaves hang down, as those of the species do in their natural habitats. This ensures that water does not lodge in the centre of the plant but becomes self-draining. This is less easy to do with some of the modern hybrids, whose leaves have lost the elongated shape of the species and have become rounder and more rigidly upright. Look for plants of the right shape for this purpose.

In parts of the world where yearround sunshine is guaranteed, the vandaceous orchids come into their own. The brilliant colours of the modern hybrids are the results of those of us residing in cooler climates. In the tropics, they grow with total ease, continuing to produce their superb blooms throughout the year.

The only danger here is that when the sun comes out again after the rain, the plants inside the “tent” may experience a sudden rise in temperature if the polythene is not removed quickly.

The trees will restrict the available light, and the glass roof will be covered by debris from the trees, which will encourage the growth of algae. An open site will also prevent insects from the trees being blown in through the open ventilators, which is how many pests enter the greenhouse in summer. There are many differing designs of greenhouses available from various manufacturers.

During the hottest months of the year, watering can be more beneficial if it is done towards evening, when the sun has left the plants and the temperature is cooling down.

In this way, the compost (growing medium) will remain moist for longer and keep the roots cool. Check daily to see if watering is needed, and give plenty each time to ensure a thorough wetting.

Climbers, such as stephanotis or hoya, tend to drop blooms on to the orchids below, causing rots if they are not picked up quickly, as well as dripping their sugary nectar, which causes moulds, on to your orchids below. As the climbers grow, they will restrict more and more light from the orchids and will outpace every other plant in the greenhouse, in addition to harbouring pests such as scale insects. Leave room for an inside water butt (deep sink) in which to dunk plants, and install a mains water tap and hose to make watering and damping down easier.

Plants from the Odontoglossum alliance are extremely reluctant to grow from the older pseudobulbs. It seems that any spare eyes that are not activated while they are young deteriorate rapidly, losing the ability to grow within a year or two. For this reason, odontoglossums are propagated differently from other sympodial orchids, but the method carries a greater risk to the plant and is not to be undertaken lightly.

Phalaenopsis occasionally produce keikis or adventitious growths from the old flowering stems. This is frequently seen with the species Phalaenopsis lueddemanniana and related species or hybrids. If you want to encourage new growth in this way, you can treat the flowering stems with keiki paste - a growth hormone enhancement that is available from some specialist nurseries or orchid sundry firms. First remove the small green bract that protects each node along the stem, then apply the paste.

If the treatment is successful, a new plantlet will grow, producing its own leaves and roots, which can be removed and potted up when large enough. Vandas orchids are monopodial orchids, but they are not so easy to propagate from.

Cattleyas are sympodial orchids that are also treated slightly differently. The creeping rhizome is much thicker than that of other orchids and is visible on the surface of the compost with the pseudobulbs spaced along it. Most cattleyas have two growing seasons in any year, producing new growth and roots in the autumn as well as in the spring. This makes it possible to start propagation during the autumn by severing the plant, which remains in its pot.

The plant that has become extremely lit with a length of bare stem at the base srd strong aerial roots along its length, be cut down by severing the rhizome at a point below the leaves and aerial roots. The leafless stump that is left in the pot will, in time, produce a new growth that can be grown on.

The majority of sympodial orchids with pseudobulbs can be propagated in this way, but there are exceptions, such as orchids from the Odontoglossum alliance. It is always worth potting up any spare back bulbs and growing them on to flowering, although this can take a few years.

When a back bulb does not grow, it may be too old, and any spare eyes are dead. An old back bulb that gets started into growth sometimes shrivels and dies before the new growth has got very far, and unless it has made its own roots, it is unlikely to survive.

Some genera will grow from back bulbs much more readily than others, and it can be a case of trial and error to find out which are most likely to grow for you in this way. If you find yourself with a handful of various back bulbs left over at repotting time, try placing them all in one seedling tray, then wait to see which start to grow. As new growths appear, take out the relevant back bulbs and pot them up on their own. Those that have not produced new growths within about three months are unlikely to grow and can be discarded.

In temperate regions of the world, orchids that are normally grown indoors or under glass can be placed outside for the summer growing season. A carefully chosen position will provide your plants with conditions that are nearer to those of their natural habitat.

One successful method of growing miniature orchids is to enclose them in a growing case. An old aquarium used for tropical fish is ideal, and these can often be picked up very cheaply if they are no longer watertight. First establish whether or not there are any leaks around the base; if there are, fit a humidity tray into the base.

Place pebbles or expanded clay pellets in the base to create your own individual tank effect. You now have a miniature orchid garden to house those tiny plants that would otherwise dry out too rapidly. Place this in a bright spot, but not too close to a window where it may overheat. It is a good idea to place a minimum/maximum thermometer inside the aquarium to assess the temperature range you have created.

Masdevallias and other smallgrowing related genera are shadedwellers that would be particularly unhappy placed in the open. In no time a rapid loss of their almost succulent leaves would result. Their culture is more specialized, and difficult enough to achieve in the greenhouse. Among the intermediate genera, those members of the vast Cattleya alliance do well in tropical gardens, but in temperate regions the foliage is prone to heavy marking by the excesses of wind and weather.

For just one or two very small plants, use a large glass such as a brandy glass laid on its side, and create a miniature landscape inside for one or two little plants.

The richly coloured flowers of Zygopetalum max-Mare, for example, are strongly scented. Brassavola cuculaw, which is sometimes called the ghost orchid, has drooping flowers of a ghostly appearance.

It blooms during the autumn and is highly fragrant at night. Well-chosen colour combinations can create beautiful effects, as is shown by this display of pale pink Phalaenopsis schilleriana and the deep pink P. Mad Milva. Orchids can be displayed in most rooms in the house.

The pale lemon Phalaenopsis Barbara Moler x Spitzberg looks perfect in a blue bathroom. A Phalaenopsis Mad Milva will do well as the centrepiece of an orchid display, provided it is kept out of direct sunlight. The flowers are delightful with cerise pink petals and sepals, with a darker pink lip.